Sunday, March 20, 2011

I (don't) heart Dublin


Statue of Molly Malone on Grafton Street



In Dublin's fair city, where girls are so pretty
I first set my eyes on sweet Molly Malone
As she wheeled her wheelbarrow through streets broad and narrow
Crying, Cockles and mussels! alive, alive oh!
- an Irish drinking song

I have a like-indifferent relationship with Dublin, the capitol city of the Republic of Ireland.  There are certainly some beautiful parts of the city, and I have created some delightful memories on my two visits there, but it is not one of my favorite cities and it is not a location around which I would plan a trip.

I think one of the reasons I don't care much for Dublin is based partly on the way my visits have been organized.  Both times, we have arrived in the evening, had a bus tour the next morning that took until lunch time, had lunch, and then had the afternoon free.  Dublin isn't really a big city, but the things to do other than shopping are sprawled out and close fairly early.  I am not a shopper and I don't know how to use their public transportation system.



Looking down Grafton Street

The main shopping areas of Dublin are Grafton Street, O'Connell Street, and St. Stephen's Green.  Grafton Street is a pedestrian area.  The shops along it are either high end fashion or trinket stores.  I enjoy the novelty stores much more than the fashion.  Along the street are huskers, various street performers hoping they'll entertain you enough for you to toss a couple of Euros in their hat.  The street is always packed with people, especially after the museums close.



If you have time in Dublin, there are some excellent things to do.  You can tour the Guiness Brewery, explore St. Patrick's Cathederal, or spend some time in Phoenix Park.  Phoenix Park is one of the largest urban parks in the world.  It is full of athletic fields, monuments, and deer.  One of my favorite memories is playing cricket in the shadow of the large cross built to mark the spot where the Pope held mass for over one million people.

 
Phoenix Park
Trinity College is the home of the Book of Kells, a illuminated New Testament prepared by Celtic monks about 800 AD.  There are several museums that you can visit, but they close around 5:00.  I went to the National Archeology Museum on my last visit.  One of the exhibits includes the bog bodies, preserved bodies found in the bogs of Kerry.  They were a little gross, but also interesting.  It was a nice place to sit and relax.  If I recall correctly, I took a little nap inside.  Pick up a Dublin Pass and you will have admission to several different Dublin attractions.  You can also pick up a pass for a City Tour Bus, a red double decker bus that makes several stops around town. 
 
  Night time in Dublin is fantastic.  The city has a wonderful energy.  You can go to the Temple Bar area (Bar means street in Dublin) where there are many pubs with music.  You can also find places featuring traditional Irish dancing.  The River Liffey slices through the middle of the city with many bridges that cross the river.  As long as you can get to the river, Dublin is an easy city to navigate.


The Harp Bridge over the River Liffey
 So, I guess saying "I don't heart Dublin" may be a little unfair.  The city just takes planning to truly enjoy.  I think planning is essential to any trip.  The more I know about a destination, the better plan I have, the more I find I enjoy a location.  On the same note, though, I also recommend having a good plan and then being prepared to forget it.  As I get closer to Italy in 2013, I will begin planning things I would like to see in the cities of Venice, Florence, and Rome in my free time.  To learn more about Italy in 2013, go to http://www.eftours.com/ and explore "Grand Tour of Italy."




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